My goal was to get an early start and beat the heat. After my last hike (29 years ago on my honeymoon with Randi) we failed to do that. In spectacular fashion. But let’s just say if running out of water on the hottest (or nearly so) day of the year in the Canyon can test a marriage and here we are 29 years later, I suppose we did ok.

The Backcountry Office had given me two options. One was to catch a 6:00 AM shuttle to the Kaibab trailhead or to try to snag one of the 12 spots at a small lot just off the road to the trailhead. I figured I’d wake up in the morning and see what my time looked like. Each had its benefits, but waiting for the shuttle meant a possibly later start.

I went to bed soon after dark and so I woke up around 4:00 AM (without an alarm!). I quickly packed and figured I’d risk the parking lot. Sure enough there were plenty of spots available. So after a scramble to grab a last few items from the car (I still forgot some hand sanitizer) I was off. I had to hike to the trailhead (Google says about .7 miles) before I could officially start my hike at 6:15 AM. This gave me about a 20 minute head start over the shuttle bus.

Often when I hike I set two goals: an optimistic one and a pessimistic one. This is even more true when it’s a trail I’m not familiar with or when, like now, I’m not in as good a shape as I’d like to be (and not nearly as young as I used to be!) So, I had an optimistic goal of about 2 miles an hour. That may sound easy, but on a steep trail, much in the Sun, and with a heavy backpack, and given the above age/in-shape factors, I figured I could hope for that. But I’d expect something like 1-1.5mph. My first major goal was the Tonto Trail where it crosses the South Kaibab Trail. There were a few points along the way I’d use to measure my progress.

Well the good news is I did make good time. Based on landmarks, even with stopping to take photos, I was averaging at least 2 mph. I was content. This was my 4th time down the trail, but to be honest, it’s been so long I didn’t remember much, just the general fact that it’s VERY exposed to the Sun and there’s no water. There were some spots that seemed familiar though. Mostly this trail, especially the further you go, is really only recommended for in-shape, experienced hikers who are planning on spending the night. I had two of those three parameters down. So I felt comfortable. And it appears most of the folks I passed on the way down (and I in fact did pass some people who were going down more slowly than me) fit that group. What I didn’t expect to pass was Christopher Robin.

Here is Edward Bear, coming downstairs now, bump, bump, bump, on the back of his head, behind Christopher Robin. It is, as far as he knows, the only way of coming downstairs, but sometimes he feels that there really is another way, if only he could stop bumping for a moment and think of it. And then he feels that perhaps there isn’t. Anyhow, here he is at the bottom, and ready to be introduced to you. Winnie-the-Pooh.

I first spotted this hiker from a switchback perhaps 30′ above him and a few hundred yards away. At first I thought he was standing next to some sort of small structure or something that perhaps the Park Service had put there to monitor the weather or something. It looked flat, smooth, and very obviously man-made.

But as I got closer I was even more confused. It was in fact not something the Park Service had put there. In fact I’m not 100% sure they would have approved of it being there at all.

It was… a kayak. Yes, you read that right a kayak.

I asked him what his plan was and it was in fact to hike to the Colorado and put in and canoe down some number of days (I forgot how many he said). I wished him luck and continued on my way.

It was a few minutes later when I took a water break that I could here the thump thump of the kayak as it bounced down the trail behind him. That’s when I named him Christopher Robin and his kayak Winnie-the-Pooh. Strangely, about 30 minutes later I met 3 folks hiking up from the river (or at least the Tonto Plateau) who asked if I had seen a guy with a kayak. I’m not sure if they were friends or had simply heard about him. In any event, I never saw him again and hope he made it.

Once at the trail junction I noticed what I’m pretty sure is a new structure since I was there 29 years ago, a Sun shelter. This is in addition to the composting toilets that have been there for as long as I’m aware. Randi and I could have used this last time.

I got here at 8:15, so I was definitely making good time. After a 10 minute potty break and water/food break I was on my way to terra incognita: the Tonto Trail headed west to Havasu Gardens. This was a trail I had never done before. I wasn’t too concerned. It’s fairly flat and there’s non-potable, but treatable, water along the way if I really needed it. The only concern was the Sun. But off I set. I won’t bore you with details. It was uneventful, I saw very few hikers. And I made good time. I will note it’s very obvious in the Canyon where water is. The Cottonwoods grow.

Again, I was making excellent time and was pleased with my progress. I even managed to find a few stretches that still had some shade. My plan of starting very early was paying off.

That said as I approached Havasu Gardens I was in for a bit of a surprise and disappointment. Due to the trail construction and pipeline work, rather than hiking into Havasu along the contour I was on, I had to turn away from the Gardens, descend, cross back up a steep section. It was both physiologically and mentally draining. So close and this small hurdle.

But I made it, and well in the time I wanted. I was at Havasu Gardens by 10:53. I was content.

The rest of the day was spent relaxing, reading, and some photo taking. One of the other hikers spied something that caused the Park volunteer to put out a warning sign. I’ll pause to say, if you don’t like snakes, don’t look at the final picture!

Overall, a great day of hiking and I loved being back in the Canyon again and getting the chance to try a new trail! My only concerns… the hike out. Again I wanted an early start. Which I managed to get. More in the next post.

Took two sleep breaks last night, the last one at Buc-ees. It’s an interesting place and exactly what I expected. I did splurge and get a breakfast burrito. It started out well, with brisket I think, but by the end, well it wasn’t worth it in my opinion.

Was making some good time when a sign with the distinctive brown and white of the National Park Service caught my eye (side note, does that brown have a special name? I’ll have to find out!): George Washington Carver National Monument.

I’ve always been interested in him, if only because I love peanuts and a good PB&J (which I did make myself later in the day). So I figured why not.

Sadly, Google Maps was NOT helpful here. It couldn’t give me directions. It simply suggested what I assume came from the website. Normally I wouldn’t care, but on the way I almost missed a turn because I only saw the sign in time.

To say the monument is off the beaten path is an understatement. It’s literally a back road off a back road off a side road from the Interstate. That said, I’d say it’s worth the stop!

So, while not on any of my bucket lists, I’m glad I took the detour.

My next stop led to another unexpected stop. I stopped in Tulsa to take a photo of a place that shares the name of a friend. (sorry, I’d share, but not currently uploaded to my cloud account). While there I decided to put in my contacts. I had been driving all morning with my glasses and figured it was time. Well, my left contact had other ideas and is currently somewhere in my car. Fortunately there was a Lenscrafters not far out of my way so an unplanned stop there got me a replacement for the sinister lens that left me.

From there, a few stops at roadside attractions, but nothing of note.

For the end of the day I decided to make a “run for it” and get to Texas before getting gas. It was close. I wouldn’t say I was on fumes, but my tank was empty and my bladder overfull! But I made Texas.

Next was a few stops trying to find a place to eat and here I am at Backstreet 200 in I believe Panhandle Texas.

I do need to figure out how to get my phone to correctly upload photos over a data connection and not wait for a Wi-Fi one.

That said, I have to say, been thinking a lot about my Dad today. My Mom and Dad probably introduced my wanderlust before I even had memories. This included a trip across country including apparently an unfinished section of I-80 through Colorado where my Mom had to drive while fearing she’d drive over the edge into the Colorado River.

But the first cross-country trip (or nearly we didn’t make the Pacific) that I actually recall was with my Dad, his then girlfriend and her daughter. We took much this same route, especially the last 1000 miles or so. I’ve been this way via car at least twice since then, but that was the first time. I’ll have more thoughts on the matter in the future I’m sure.

But enough for now. Time to eat.

Going without a fixed plan or schedule has its advantages and disadvantages. I experienced both today.

After two overnight stops to sleep, I was well on my way. I had really only one goal today: to make it to the St. Louis Gateway Arch and ride it to the top. The first time I went west, with my dad, his girlfriend and her daughter we arrived after it had closed, so we only saw it from the outside. The past couple of times I was passing through St. Louis, either I again arrived too late or was on too tight of a schedule to stop.

Back to the Arch in a moment.

As I said, there are advantages to no fixed schedule or plan. When I see something that interests me, I can go see it. Today was that day: the Air Force Museum or more accurately: National Museum of the United States Air Force. A quick glance at my phone for the map showed I could give myself about 2 hours there and still make the Gateway Arch. I’ve wanted to visit this museum for years because of my interest in aerospace and because it has a few unique exhibits.

I ended up spending a bit more time here than planned, and far less than I would have liked.

There are three HUGE hangers full of aircraft and some missiles and more. It was well worth the visit. And the cost was in my budget: $0

When I got back to my car I panicked at first thinking I had miscalculated the time and I’d arrive in St. Louis too late. Then I remembered it’s in the Central Time Zone and I in fact had an hour and twenty minutes to spare.

So I set out. I had to make one stop for gas (well two, turns out the first place was actually closed, despite the signs still advertising it being open!, so that set me back 10 minutes.

So between the one gas station and parking, I was down to an hour before closing, which was 6:00 PM.

As I walked down the ramp to the entrance I saw a sign: Last tram runs one hour before closing. It was 5:00 PM. I rushed to the desk hoping against hope I’d sneak in under the window.

Well dear reader, I am sorry to say I was foiled again. The last tram of the day had left. I actually was nearly in tears.

That said, I was able so console myself with the fact that apparently tickets had sold out hours previously. So arriving 10 or 20 minutes earlier would have made no difference, and in fact arriving 3 hours earlier wouldn’t have made a difference.

I did spend some time in the museum itself and took some photos, so it wasn’t a complete waste.

And then headed west.

I’m typing this from a Mexican restaurant somewhere on I-44. I’ll remember the name later.

All in all, a day with some plusses and minuses. Next, find a place to sleep for the night and then figure out my plans for tomorrow and how many miles I want to put in.